Sewing: Adding a Pleat to the Top Pattern

If you've visited this blog before, you  may have noticed I like "variations on a theme". I'm even worse when it comes to sewing patterns, but unfortunately there's only so much you can cram into a single pattern...

Enter: pattern adaptations!!! :)

I'm also working on a new sewing pattern (a skirt!), so if your lucky this may be the only adaptation I'll be posting, but I'm not making any promises...

The top with a box pleat and with an inverted pleat 

If you haven't already: print out the free top sewing pattern.

This added pleat doesn't require any drafting experience, it's nothing more than a strip of paper, in this case 7cm wide and the height of the bottom part of the top pattern. And since a box pleat and an inverted pleat are basically the same thing (different sides of the same pleat) you get two for the price of one ;)

Pattern with strip of paper to create a pleat

Blackwork Embroidery: Box of Gems Pattern

Have fun :)
Please click image to enlarge

40 stitches wide and 39 high

Ear Candy: Space Casey Season 2 (free audiobook)

I figured you could do with something light and entertaining while getting frustrated happily working on  the free top and/or the 3D beading design I posted the patterns of recently (I know, totally shameless plug...)

And what could be better than Space Casey Season 2? 

I'll also add the link to part one for those of you who haven't yet listened to it.

Have lots of fun listening :)

Space Casey by Christiana Ellis (on Podiobooks)

Space Casey Season 2 

Beading: 3D Wavy Star Thingy Pattern...

Needless to say I'm rubbish at coming up with design names lol.
The pattern was made over a year ago, but I never got round to taking pictures (read: I  kept putting off taking pictures...).
The lovely geometric beadwork of Kate McKinnon and Jean Power made me want to try it out for myself and this design was the result.
(Please click images to enlarge, and click the "Read more" link below for more pictures and the pattern.)

Top view

Bottom view

Another view of the bottom

It's not very hard to make, but since the points tend to stick out in all kinds of directions it can feel a bit awkward. Having the points going in alternating directions (1 up, 1 down and so on) as soon as the work allows it makes it easier to handle. The centre seems to determine what the best direction is for each point, but you can always check this once your finished, since the object will remain flexible. The type of thread will most likely influence how structured the object feels, I just used invisible sewing thread (because that's what I had...), other thread types will probably lead to different results in rigidity/flexibility.  

Free-hand Embroidery Motif Pattern

Have fun :)
Please click image to enlarge

Measures 18.5x18.5cm when printed at 100%

Beading: Peyote Stitch Pattern 33

Have fun :)
Please click any image to enlarge

Basic pattern 

Colour version 1

Colour version 2

Colour version 3

Colour version 4

Colour version 5

What the pattern looks like after a few repeats

Free Top Sewing Pattern, Long Overdue...

My totally unflattering
drawing of this top

First up, a big thank you to Kathleen Fasanella, of Fashion Incubator, for kindly allowing me to use her wonderful centered zip method in the sewing instructions.
A big thank you also to the ladies of Crafterhours, for their lovely all-in-one facings tutorial.

This has taken me much, much longer than I anticipated, but better late than never I guess...
The pattern is available in 4 sizes: 36, 38, 40 and 42. Apparently sizes aren't as standardised as I thought, so it was really difficult to find what the UK and US sizes are for these, but here are the bust measurements I used:

• size 36: 84cm + 6cm ease = 90cm    (33.07 + 2.4 = 35.47 inches)
• size 38: 88cm + 6cm ease = 94cm    (34.65 + 2.4 = 37.05 inches)
• size 40: 92cm + 6cm ease = 98cm    (36.22 + 2.4 = 38.62 inches)
• size 42: 96cm + 6cm ease = 102cm  (37.8   + 2.4 = 40.2   inches)

The top measures roughly 25cm (9.8 inches) from the waist down.

The pattern uses seam allowances that are in centimetres, but the pattern has a printable sewing machine gauge that can be attached to your throat plate. I hope that will help :)

Back and front of the top

The first thing (and probably not the last...) I have to apologise for is the use of notch markings (or lack there of). I had a hard time figuring out what the proper placement would be, so I placed lines on each and every corner and sticky-out bit. 

I have made an example of where I think they might go, but be careful and use it at your own risk... ;)

The red lines indicate where I think the snip marks might go

Please click the "read more" link to... erm, well, read more...