Sewing: Adding a Pleat to the Top Pattern

If you've visited this blog before, you  may have noticed I like "variations on a theme". I'm even worse when it comes to sewing patterns, but unfortunately there's only so much you can cram into a single pattern...

Enter: pattern adaptations!!! :)

I'm also working on a new sewing pattern (a skirt!), so if your lucky this may be the only adaptation I'll be posting, but I'm not making any promises...

The top with a box pleat and with an inverted pleat 

If you haven't already: print out the free top sewing pattern.

This added pleat doesn't require any drafting experience, it's nothing more than a strip of paper, in this case 7cm wide and the height of the bottom part of the top pattern. And since a box pleat and an inverted pleat are basically the same thing (different sides of the same pleat) you get two for the price of one ;)

Pattern with strip of paper to create a pleat

Tape or glue the paper to your pattern piece, add seam allowances (if desired), and mark the middle of the strip at 3.5cm (here it has been drawn as a line).

If you use a hem facing you will have to do the same on the bottom facing pattern.

The box pleat

The inverted pleat

 Add snip marks to your pattern, indicated by the coloured stripes in the pictures

Please note: if a hem is very curvy it may be necessary to make adjustments (with this top I doubt you will have to, but I mention it, just it case). The easiest way to find out is to fold the added paper the way the pleat would be on your garment. Check the hemline and cut away any excess paper. 

Unless a pleat is creased all the way from top to hemline and differences in length would be glaringly obvious, you probably won't need to do this though.

Extremely exaggerated example of how to adjust the bottom of a pleat to a curvy hem

Once your pattern is done transfer it to your fabric. For the pleat: fold the pleat by matching up the (snip) marks, pin and check if the bottom part matches the top part. When it does, pin or baste the pleat in place (just above and below where the stitch line will be sewn) and sew top and bottom part together.

And that's it, you're done! :)

If you have any questions or suggestions for other adaptations, please leave them in the comments.

Have fun :)